tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20236885416250458252024-03-13T08:53:33.127-04:00The Finished PartSteven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.comBlogger221125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-56573922032673960672015-03-03T10:17:00.000-05:002015-03-03T10:17:00.217-05:00Polishing Stainless Steel<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t56iEBhiGUg/VN4Ti4hSCNI/AAAAAAAAASk/_S6pJCFKW0w/s1600/Stainless%2BSteel%2BPolishing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t56iEBhiGUg/VN4Ti4hSCNI/AAAAAAAAASk/_S6pJCFKW0w/s1600/Stainless%2BSteel%2BPolishing.jpg" height="200" width="193" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stainless Steel Polishing</td></tr>
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Machined stainless steel parts typically have sharp edges, burrs and a matte surface finish. Vibratory tumbling can be used to get a polished finish sometimes even down to just a few Ra surface profile. This is often a multi-step process.<br />
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The part on the left is the 'raw' part ready for deburring and polishing. The first step is to deburr and round the edges. This was accomplished using a KM general purpose <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media.htm" target="_blank">Ceramic Media</a>. This was a wet process using a solution of <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/LQD.html" target="_blank">Kramco 1010 General Purpose Compound</a>. The result at this point (not pictured) was a <a href="http://thefinishedpart.kramerindustriesonline.com/2010/05/removing-machine-marks.html" target="_blank">matte, tumbled finish</a> with rounded edges.<br />
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The second step needed to get the pictured polish (on the right) involved tumbling with a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/PC.html" target="_blank">Precision Ceramic Sphere</a> and a solution of Kramco 2020 Burnishing Compound. Generally, a rounder media will produce a smoother finish than an angular media.<br />
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This part could be further polished with other tumbling media or hand buffed to a near-mirror finish.<br />
<br />Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-88026314516806822382014-12-17T14:09:00.000-05:002014-12-17T14:09:00.243-05:00Glass Bead vs Aluminum Oxide Grit<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P2Moa7QF2aY/VEFagIKQdQI/AAAAAAAAAR8/UTc8m8Yqdrw/s1600/DSC02211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P2Moa7QF2aY/VEFagIKQdQI/AAAAAAAAAR8/UTc8m8Yqdrw/s1600/DSC02211.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aluminum Parts</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4HTPPcfhPyg/VEFagEPPy2I/AAAAAAAAASA/7NXLktNzZew/s1600/DSC02212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4HTPPcfhPyg/VEFagEPPy2I/AAAAAAAAASA/7NXLktNzZew/s1600/DSC02212.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glass Bead (left) vs Aluminum Oxide Grit (right)</td></tr>
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These pictures show the differences between blasting an aluminum part (middle of top picture) with either a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/GB.html" target="_blank">Glass Bead</a> - 100/170 Medium-Fine and <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/AO.html" target="_blank">Aluminum Oxide Grit</a> - 220 Mesh.<br />
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The Glass Bead blasted part has much more a peened, smooth, uniform finish. The Aluminum Oxide Grit blasted part also has a uniform finish but is more etched and 'darker'.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-47276696994979276002014-12-04T13:38:00.000-05:002014-12-04T13:38:00.049-05:00Acrylic Duck Calls<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r99jXBXvnWo/VEFTlb5W25I/AAAAAAAAARs/wpaNLhGbfNc/s1600/DSC02222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r99jXBXvnWo/VEFTlb5W25I/AAAAAAAAARs/wpaNLhGbfNc/s1600/DSC02222.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Acrylic Duck Calls</td></tr>
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Above is an other good example of the results that can be obtained with dry barrel tumbling using Hardwood Media and the Finishing Creams. The part directly out of the milling is on the left and the final result is on the right.<br />
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There are a number of other pictures with brief descriptions of the process used located at these links:<br />
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<a href="http://thefinishedpart.kramerindustriesonline.com/2009/08/polishing-acrylic.html" target="_blank">Polishing Molded Acrylic</a><br />
<a href="http://thefinishedpart.kramerindustriesonline.com/2014/05/polishing-acrylic.html" target="_blank">Polishing Machined Acrylic</a><br />
<a href="http://thefinishedpart.kramerindustriesonline.com/2010/08/polishing-acrylic-plastic.html" target="_blank">Polishing Colorless Acrylic</a><br />
<a href="http://thefinishedpart.kramerindustriesonline.com/2011/02/polishing-plastic-parts.html" target="_blank">Acrylic Button Polishing</a><br />
<a href="http://thefinishedpart.kramerindustriesonline.com/2011/06/acrylic-polishing.html" target="_blank">Acrylic Knife Handles</a>Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-17768677843597303962014-10-30T11:40:00.000-04:002014-10-30T11:40:00.356-04:00Frosting Glass<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g05fLNQ6Zj4/VEE4-H3KxLI/AAAAAAAAARM/Fp0bMEjIjXE/s1600/Clear%2BGlass.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g05fLNQ6Zj4/VEE4-H3KxLI/AAAAAAAAARM/Fp0bMEjIjXE/s1600/Clear%2BGlass.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WQFSn_93a9Q/VEE4-NWgM6I/AAAAAAAAARI/V4D0zFefq_A/s1600/240%2BMesh%2BWhite%2BAluminum%2BOxide%2BGrit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WQFSn_93a9Q/VEE4-NWgM6I/AAAAAAAAARI/V4D0zFefq_A/s1600/240%2BMesh%2BWhite%2BAluminum%2BOxide%2BGrit.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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Frosting clear glass to create a totally different look or put some type of design on the glass is a very simple process. This clear glass was abrasive blasted with a White Aluminum Oxide Grit - 240 Mesh to produce a translucent finish.<br />
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The use of a resist or pattern with exposed areas will allow for only select areas of the glass to be etched leaving the rest clear.<br />
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Different grit sizes will produce smoother or rougher finishes and cut to different depths into the glass.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-62026025704462640872013-10-29T10:25:00.000-04:002013-10-29T10:25:24.568-04:00Heavy Deburring - Small Parts<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QAX_2uQaYtY/Um--a74BSnI/AAAAAAAAAOA/f85lpKdAV_8/s1600/Heavy+Deburring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="196" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QAX_2uQaYtY/Um--a74BSnI/AAAAAAAAAOA/f85lpKdAV_8/s200/Heavy+Deburring.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deburring Small Parts</td></tr>
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Often times, the machining of small parts can lead to very heavy burrs and difficult areas to finish. The steel gear pictured above has a diameter of about 1/4". The machining to make the gear teeth left very heavy burrs on the edges (see part on left). The burrs can be seen as the excess material that is hanging off the edges and rolled into curls. All this steel needs to be removed before the part is functional.<br />
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The two primary criteria for finding the proper media are (1) small enough to get into the area between the teeth and not get stuck and (2) aggressive enough to remove the extraneous steel and burrs without overly changing the dimensions and tolerances of the part.<br />
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This part was deburred (see part on right) using a general purpose, deburring <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media/ceramic-cones.htm" target="_blank">Ceramic Cone</a> in a vibratory tumbler. This shape was chosen since the tip of the media will get between the teeth to remove the burrs. The general purpose bond or formulation (KM in this case) provided the best balance of deburring without being overly aggressive.<br />
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While this process did remove nearly all of the burrs on the gear teeth in only 1 hour, looking closely at the finished part will reveal some material still left on the edges. In some cases this metal needs to be removed as well and would require longer cycle times, more aggressive media and/or additional grinding steps.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-88924913649296174972013-07-05T11:07:00.000-04:002013-07-10T13:42:27.357-04:00Concrete CanoesWhile it seems a bit counter-intuitive, a concrete canoe can float. Using materials like <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media/pumice.htm" target="_blank">Glass Beads</a> and <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media/pumice.htm" target="_blank">Pumice</a> to create a more bouyant material, these student groups have worked with us over the years to great success (and failure).<br />
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<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/24/science/out-of-concrete-and-drudgery-come-canoes-that-float.html?_r=0" target="_blank">Out of Concrete and Drudgery Come Canoes That Float</a> - NY Times; June 23, 2013Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-3369177064491970812013-06-11T09:35:00.002-04:002013-06-11T09:35:51.284-04:00Polishing Stainless Steel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HczcHIzKC08/Ubcl9vHoDII/AAAAAAAAAMs/IF3keIkbeRU/s1600/Polishing+Stainless+Steel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="114" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HczcHIzKC08/Ubcl9vHoDII/AAAAAAAAAMs/IF3keIkbeRU/s320/Polishing+Stainless+Steel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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After heat treating and laser cutting stainless steel parts, the edges generally need to be deburred and the surface needs to be cleaned from scale and discoloration prior to polishing. A two-step vibratory tumbling process is normally used to achieve a uniform surface finish.<br />
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The part on the far left in the picture shows the burrs and slight discoloration on the edges. The first step was to tumble the parts with a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media.htm" target="_blank">Ceramic Media</a> to get a the uniform, tumbled, matte finish shown on the part in the center of the picture. For this particular part a 2 hour cycle time with a general purpose tumbling compound resulted in the finish seen.<br />
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The second step (far right in picture) was also a 2 hour vibratory tumble with a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/precision-ceramic-media/precision-ceramic-polishing.htm" target="_blank">Precision Ceramic</a> polishing (porcelain-type) media and a high lubricity tumbling compound. The surface is improved to a more uniform and brighter finish and the part is ready for a clear coat or further polishing as needed.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-82700204019715390622013-05-29T11:29:00.000-04:002013-05-29T11:29:00.790-04:003D Printed PartsAn interesting <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/shoptalk/3d-printed-plastic-parts-t1180.html" target="_blank">thread</a> about deflashing and surface finishing 3D printed parts has been started on the ShopTalk Forum. As this 3D manufacturing process becomes more popular and mainstream, surface finishing using both barrel tumbling and vibratory tumbling will continue to be an issue. Please provide any comments and experience you have either on The Finished Part Blog here or on the <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/shoptalk/3d-printed-plastic-parts-t1180.html" target="_blank">Forum</a>.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-9516803287067173082013-05-02T11:32:00.000-04:002013-05-04T00:31:52.854-04:00Tumble Blasting Paint HooksContinuously painting parts using an automated process often involves hanging the parts from a moving track using paint hooks. These hooks invariably will get a build-up of paint and need to be stripped. Abrasive blasting with the proper media will strip the paint and allow the maximum usage lifetime of the hooks. Using a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-systems/tb-series.htm" target="_blank">tumble blaster</a> will allow for automated blasting of many parts in a batch and minimal downtime for the hooks.<br />
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The two pictures below show the part both before blasting (painted black) and the hooks after blasting with either 60 Mesh <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media/aluminum-oxide.htm" target="_blank">Aluminum Oxide Grit</a> or 12-16 Mesh <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media/plastic-abrasives.htm" target="_blank">Melamine Plastic Abrasive</a> Blast Media. A batch of these parts were tumble blasted for only 6 minutes at 60 psi.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_HF6SzAUSTk/UYKDMYnGvFI/AAAAAAAAAL8/wor4AdRO1vQ/s1600/Before+-+Alox+6+min.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_HF6SzAUSTk/UYKDMYnGvFI/AAAAAAAAAL8/wor4AdRO1vQ/s200/Before+-+Alox+6+min.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aluminum Oxide Blasted (right)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a_79J0XLK3A/UYKDN47JWLI/AAAAAAAAAME/9oLWNn9MTs0/s1600/Before+-+Melamine+6+min.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a_79J0XLK3A/UYKDN47JWLI/AAAAAAAAAME/9oLWNn9MTs0/s200/Before+-+Melamine+6+min.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Melamine Blasted (right)</td></tr>
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Both media types removed the excess paint and left the parts ready for re-use. An initial review seems to appear that the Aluminum Oxide Grit did a better job of removing the paint.<br />
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Upon a closer analysis, the Melamine actually provided an overall better result as can be more clearly seen in the comparison picture below. The Melamine Plastic part on the left does have a small amount of paint left on the surface but enough exposed metal to allow for the hook to perform properly and even could be used in a electro-coating process, if necessary.<br />
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The Aluminum Oxide blasted part is also clean but this media tended to etch the metal and will ultimately result in fewer usable cycles and/or failure of the hook.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-09d2MBE9w3M/UYKEC_srzVI/AAAAAAAAAMM/Gi53Qm56IhI/s1600/Melamine+-+Aluminum+Oxide.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-09d2MBE9w3M/UYKEC_srzVI/AAAAAAAAAMM/Gi53Qm56IhI/s200/Melamine+-+Aluminum+Oxide.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<br />Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-19301895360476170382013-04-04T13:42:00.000-04:002013-04-04T23:44:27.608-04:00Stainless Steel FinishesThere are four major types of surface finishes that are designated for stainless steel. While many of these finishes are somewhat subjective, below is a guideline for the most common finishes:<br />
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<b>#3 Coarse Finish</b> -- Usually a preliminary, coarse surface finish. Also referred to as rough grinding. Used for removing gates from cast parts, heavy burrs, weld splatter. Often accomplished with a disc or belt grinder but parts can be tumbled part-on-part with an abrasive grit to achieve a #3 finish.<br />
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<b>#4 Brushed Finish </b>-- Defined as a directional or uniform surface finish. Removes surface defects in the surface but accepts fine polishing lines. A #4 Sanitary Finish is a slightly smoother, polished finish commonly designated in the food, dairy and medical industries. Tumble polishing can be used to accomplish a close approximation to a #4 Finish.<br />
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<b>#6 Fine Finish</b> -- A polished, softer version of a #4 Finish. Often less reflective than a #4 Finish. No polishing lines or surface defects visible.<br />
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<b>#8 Polished Finish</b> -- All surface defect are removed. Mirror-like finish depending on the quality of the metal. Highly buffed surface.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-31937090336613507142013-03-13T09:40:00.001-04:002013-03-13T09:40:34.366-04:00Dry Tumble Deflashing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TjyTF7JJybY/UUCBRG-LoYI/AAAAAAAAALs/aqUL_iKYTIY/s1600/Dry+Tumble+Deflashing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="89" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TjyTF7JJybY/UUCBRG-LoYI/AAAAAAAAALs/aqUL_iKYTIY/s200/Dry+Tumble+Deflashing.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Molded plastic parts often have flashing or excess material that needs to removed from the edges of the part (see part on left of picture). This can be accomplished in a variety of ways including a wet process using vibratory and barrel tumbling with an abrasive media (i.e., Plastic Media) or with an abrasive blasting process to blast the flash off the edges.<br />
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If the part is a hard plastic with a relatively simple geometry and the surface finish needs to be maintained, tumbling the part with a polishing media is ideal. The mass of a polishing media will knock the flash off the edges and will not change the surface finish since it is a non-abrasive media.<br />
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The part on the right was barrel tumbled with a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media/ceramic-angle-cut-cylinders.htm" target="_blank">KP Ceramic Angle Cut Cylinder</a> that was small enough to pass through the ID of the part. These results were obtained in only 15 minutes. The parts were retrieved from the process clean, dry and ready for the next step in the production process.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-89994587464508135612013-02-07T15:23:00.000-05:002013-02-07T15:23:00.340-05:00Scale Removal - TumblingEquipment like coffee machines, hot water heaters, boilers and other commercial and industrial equipment that use hot water eventually shows a build-up on the parts. This residue is the deposition of the salts and minerals in the water on the surfaces.<br />
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If not removed, this scale can become quite thick and affect the performance of the equipment The heat will not transfer efficiently from one area to another and holes and pipes will start to get blocked. Stripping down the scale, especially on smaller parts and in internal areas can be accomplished quite efficiently with vibratory tumbling.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e2swikLvCXc/URAXF5SetkI/AAAAAAAAALc/C5RGv5HPuoY/s1600/Scale+Removal+-+Tumbler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e2swikLvCXc/URAXF5SetkI/AAAAAAAAALc/C5RGv5HPuoY/s200/Scale+Removal+-+Tumbler.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard Water Scale Removal</td></tr>
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Tumbling the parts with the proper media and compound can make a huge difference. Common sense would be to use as abrasive a media as possible to strip off the scale. But this is not always to best way.<br />
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The part on the left was tumbled with an abrasive Ceramic Media and a general purpose tumbling compound. This is a traditional deburring process and did knock-off some of scale (see oblong area in the middle of the part). The bulk of the residue wasn't touched and if the part was left too long in this type of process, the threads, edges, holes, etc on the part may have been worn down so that the part was out of tolerance.<br />
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The part on the right (which looked the same as the one on the left before tumbling), was tumbled with a polishing Ceramic Media. While this was a much less abrasive process, the appropriate compound, <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/chemical-compounds/liquid-compounds.htm" target="_blank">Kramco 1030 Mild Acid Cleaner</a>, was used to soften, dissolve and then remove the scale. Because this was a polishing media, the part came out bright and clean with no wear on critical areas of the part.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-52872432683440266712013-01-25T12:51:00.000-05:002013-01-25T12:51:03.731-05:00Cartridge Brass - Study (Part II)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGSr3GorfqE/UPbD54I8m1I/AAAAAAAAAKc/6VRHTtwpL5w/s1600/Raw.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGSr3GorfqE/UPbD54I8m1I/AAAAAAAAAKc/6VRHTtwpL5w/s200/Raw.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dirty Cartridge Brass Casings</td></tr>
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In the last post we discussed the differences in performance between vibratory tumbling and barrel tumbling to clean brass cartridge casings. A wet process using a polishing media is a much quicker method to clean brass than dry processes using Walnut Shell Grit or Corn Cob Grit. The test results indicated very similar results in both types of wet tumbling systems.<br />
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This post will focus on three different media options for cleaning the dirt and oxidation off the brass. In all three cases, the same solution of Kramco 1030 Mild Acid Cleaner was used and all tests were conducted in a barrel tumbler with a tumble time of 15 minutes.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBhbEDCeQsc/UPbfekmlR0I/AAAAAAAAAK8/Mlgq99E61s8/s1600/Barrel+-+CS+vs+SS.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBhbEDCeQsc/UPbfekmlR0I/AAAAAAAAAK8/Mlgq99E61s8/s200/Barrel+-+CS+vs+SS.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carbon Steel vs Stainless Steel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The first test compared the differences between <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/carbon-steel-shot.htm" target="_blank">Carbon Steel Tumbling Media</a> and <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/stainless-steel-shot.htm" target="_blank">Stainless Steel Tumbling Media</a>. It is pretty clear from the picture above that the Stainless Steel was much more effective at cleaning the brass. While this difference would not be expected initially, the reason may have something to do with the characteristic of the Carbon Steel Media to oxidize <i>and </i>possibly the transfer of iron to the brass casings. This reason will be more clear after reviewing the results of the second test.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-odYXUPXSfF0/UPbgvRel_TI/AAAAAAAAALM/lisWpl1CUPY/s1600/Barrel+-+PC+vs+SS.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-odYXUPXSfF0/UPbgvRel_TI/AAAAAAAAALM/lisWpl1CUPY/s200/Barrel+-+PC+vs+SS.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polishing Ceramic vs Stainless Steel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once the Stainless Steel Media was declared the winner in the first test, the next step was to compare this heavy, burninshing media with a less dense (and less expensive) media. The above pictures compares the results of a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/precision-ceramic-media/precision-ceramic-polishing.htm" target="_blank">K-Polish Precision Ceramic Media</a> to the same Stainless Steel Media used in the first test. The K-Polish Precision Ceramic Media is a high-alumina, porcelain-type media used commonly in many different tumble polishing applications. Both of these media types are extremely long lasting with the capability for 1,000+ operating hours.<br />
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As the results for the Stainless Steel Media and the Precision Ceramic Media are very similar, the decision on which media to use will hinge on the type of equipment being used (many vibratory systems can't handle the weight of steel media), the available budget and the overall desired process.<br />
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In conclusion, these tests would seem to indicate that excellent results can be obtained in very short cycle times using either a Stainless Steel Tumbling Media or a K-Polish Precision Ceramic Tumbling Media in either a barrel tumbler or vibratory tumbler.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-83592959398458560942013-01-16T10:43:00.000-05:002013-01-16T10:43:48.110-05:00Cartridge Brass - Study (Part I)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGSr3GorfqE/UPbD54I8m1I/AAAAAAAAAKc/6VRHTtwpL5w/s1600/Raw.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGSr3GorfqE/UPbD54I8m1I/AAAAAAAAAKc/6VRHTtwpL5w/s200/Raw.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dirty Cartridge Brass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Cleaning cartridge brass (see 'dirty' brass above) has traditionally been accomplished using a vibratory or barrel tumbler with a dry media such as Walnut Shell Grit or Corn Cob Grit. Both of these medias will do a good job of cleaning the dirt and oxidation off the brass but typically require a long cycle time (12-24 hours or more).<br />
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Alternatives to this long tumbling time are available that will result in clean, bright brass is as short a time frame as 10-15 minutes. These alternatives also require a vibratory or barrel tumbling system but with different media and use a wet (chemical compound solution) process. This post and the next will review the results using different tumbling methods as well as comparisons of different media.<br />
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The basic process involves (vibe or barrel) tumbling the brass with a polishing media. A typical ratio is about 3 parts of media to 1 part of brass by volume. The solution would be added to the level of the load in a barrel tumbler. In a vibratory tumbler, the solution could be circulated through the media/parts load or could be added as a small amount (usually about 5% by volume of the load size) in a batch process. The selection of compound (i.e, <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/chemical-compounds/liquid-compounds.htm" target="_blank">Kramco 1030 Mild Acid Cleaner</a>) is critical to achieving good results. Obviously, it is important to ensure that the equipment being used is designed for a wet process.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nfL5bln-G54/UPbFvHK0LgI/AAAAAAAAAKs/CO4hWw3nS68/s1600/Vibe+vs+Barrel+-+PC+Spheres.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nfL5bln-G54/UPbFvHK0LgI/AAAAAAAAAKs/CO4hWw3nS68/s200/Vibe+vs+Barrel+-+PC+Spheres.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vibratory vs Barrel Tumbler</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This picture shows the results using the exact same media type, parts/media ratio and solution but with different tumbling system types. The parts on the left were vibratory tumbled for 15 minutes with a recirculating solution of Kramco 1030 compound. The brass on the right were barrel tumbled also for 15 minutes with the same solution filled to the level of the load.<br />
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It is clear that both tumbling processes did an excellent job of cleaning the brass and that the results are very similar. Based on this test, it seems that either a barrel tumbling system or a vibratory tumbling system can be used to clean cartridge brass. The decision comes down to the type of equipment available and the desired in-house handling process.<br />
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The next post will compare different types of media all in a barrel tumbling process.<br />
<br />Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-89689101436886946492012-12-19T10:28:00.000-05:002012-12-19T10:28:00.053-05:00Two-Step Polishing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lPzJxaQeQp0/UNCJl8jxfuI/AAAAAAAAAKA/1U7sRoO2Wuc/s1600/Polishing+Stainless+Steel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="114" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lPzJxaQeQp0/UNCJl8jxfuI/AAAAAAAAAKA/1U7sRoO2Wuc/s320/Polishing+Stainless+Steel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The far left in the picture shows a laser-cut, stainless steel part with sharp edges and heavy burrs. The goal is to clean up the edges and leave a smooth, polished surface finish. The part will need to be deburred and then polished. This will be a two-step process as an abrasive process like deburring will typically leave a smooth but matte surface finish.<br />
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In this situation, the part was first vibratory tumbled with a moderately aggressive Ceramic Media to remove the burrs and discoloration. This process took a couple of hours to result in the smooth, rounded edges and tumbled, matte surface finish shown in the middle part.<br />
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The second step used a polishing Precision Ceramic Media to improve the surface finish and brighten the part. The part on the far right have a smooth, polished look after about 2 hours in the tumbler with the polishing media. Overall, a good result without any hand deburring and polishing or manual labor.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-17647562493924279732012-12-05T10:34:00.000-05:002012-12-05T10:34:00.806-05:00Deburring Steel PartsMachined steel parts often need to be deburred. For large quantities of parts, both barrel tumbling and vibratory tumbling can accomplish this task saving labor hours and increasing throughput capacity. The specific details of the process must be chosen carefully to ensure that the parts are not only properly deburred but that the other surface finish specifications are met as well.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dfKcmP42r9k/UL9n6VrG0cI/AAAAAAAAAJc/1DxAgtVzOvk/s1600/Deburring+Steel+Parts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dfKcmP42r9k/UL9n6VrG0cI/AAAAAAAAAJc/1DxAgtVzOvk/s200/Deburring+Steel+Parts.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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The machined part on the left in this picture has a bright surface and sharp edges. The goal was to deburr the edges with minimal impact on the surface finish. The initial result (part on right) of tumbling with <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media.htm" target="_blank">Ceramic Media</a> and a general purpose compound did deburr the part but it also resulted in a dull, matte surface finish.<br />
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This part will need to be tumbled in second step using a polishing media and a different compound to bring the desired finish back. Having a clear understanding of the ultimate surface finish required and that multiple steps are often needed is the first step in finding the best solution to finishing parts.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-11830825578229042952012-10-24T10:42:00.000-04:002012-10-24T10:42:00.242-04:00Wet Barrel Tumbling Guidelines<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Below are some quick guidelines for wet <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/finishing-guides/barrel-finishing-guide.htm" target="_blank">barrel tumbling</a> for both deburring and polishing operations: </span><br />
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Fill
the barrel about half full with media and parts.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Use
a ratio of 3 or 4 to 1 (by volume) of media to parts.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Dilute
the tumbling compound to use a solution of about 2 ounces per gallon of water.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Add
enough solution to level of the load.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Change
the solution with each batch to keep the parts, process and media clean.</span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Of course, these are strictly guidelines and modifications based on any specific application or process is often needed (and recommended). </span>Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-11091595744542970412012-10-11T13:51:00.000-04:002013-03-14T18:25:34.339-04:00Glass Bead vs Aluminum Oxide for Deburring Steel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bAYM5hM4fG8/UHcGgOVc2HI/AAAAAAAAAIw/QYntEF4d55s/s1600/Glass+Bead+vs+Aluminum+Oxide.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="99" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bAYM5hM4fG8/UHcGgOVc2HI/AAAAAAAAAIw/QYntEF4d55s/s320/Glass+Bead+vs+Aluminum+Oxide.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Machining and work-hardening steel creates burrs and scale that needs to be removed. The part in the middle of the picture above shows the 'excess' material in threads as well as the darkening caused by scale formation in the heat treating process. While barrel or vibratory tumbling can be used to remove these burrs and create a smooth surface finish, threaded areas often need to maintain the square edges and dimensionality on the part.<br />
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The other two parts were blasted with different types of abrasive blast media to show how each media can accomplish the deburring task but create a totally different surface finish. The part on the left was blasted with a Medium Glass Bead (70-100 mesh) and resulted in a satin-like surface finish with clean edges. The part on the right was blasted with 120 Mesh Aluminum Oxide Grit and has a more matte, gray surface finish.<br />
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While Glass Bead can often result in a more aesthetically pleasing finish, the micro-profile achieved with Aluminum Oxide Grit is often required for future processing of the parts (i.e., coatings application).Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-26745792863845329032012-09-28T11:50:00.002-04:002012-09-28T11:50:40.176-04:00Complex Part Geometry<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vaMvgRh5Hjo/UGXFKcQo4LI/AAAAAAAAAIE/C5hvFGk7o1k/s1600/Interior+hole.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vaMvgRh5Hjo/UGXFKcQo4LI/AAAAAAAAAIE/C5hvFGk7o1k/s320/Interior+hole.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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There are often many tumbling media options for deburring or polishing parts. Different shapes and sizes of media can be used to round edges, polish into corners and provide a uniform and consistent surface finish. Part shapes and sizes that are relatively 'open' make the media selection much easier.<br />
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Sometimes parts are so complex that there may be only one option for tumbling media. Finding a media that will be small enough to get into tighter areas of a part but not get stuck in other areas can seem like an impossible task. Selecting a shape that will pass through holes without getting caught in interior areas of the part are a frustrating task. It is amazing how intelligent tumbling media can be and how it seems to always find a way to gang together and cause problems. Simply evaluating a part based on a drawing (or even holding with various media on hand) is not enough. Testing the part with different media options is critically important.<br />
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The picture above shows a milled slot on the interior diameter of the part. While this type of geometry can be challenging enough, there is a small interior hole at the end of the slot. The media selection to deburr the slot without getting stuck in the hole can be maddening. The pictures below show different features such as exterior threads, small channels and slots of varying widths and depths. While any of these features can be a challenge, all this geometry pictured was located on a single part. For this particular aluminum part, it worked out that an angle cut tristar shape deburred all the critical areas.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbCnz2Xqb4w/UGXGaGJFczI/AAAAAAAAAIM/scUopMHTF1k/s1600/Exterior+threads.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbCnz2Xqb4w/UGXGaGJFczI/AAAAAAAAAIM/scUopMHTF1k/s320/Exterior+threads.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XSocr68j2Ak/UGXGaREg4uI/AAAAAAAAAIU/7SFJsoJY3ho/s1600/Interior+channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XSocr68j2Ak/UGXGaREg4uI/AAAAAAAAAIU/7SFJsoJY3ho/s1600/Interior+channel.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-iCH9tpV4s/UGXGbP1MI3I/AAAAAAAAAIc/MxO4fMZTC5M/s1600/Slots.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-iCH9tpV4s/UGXGbP1MI3I/AAAAAAAAAIc/MxO4fMZTC5M/s320/Slots.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-47415445525077657882012-09-05T16:42:00.002-04:002012-09-07T14:07:09.785-04:00Plastic vs Ceramic Media<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aUx3Ee74IoM/UEe2KX_iM4I/AAAAAAAAAHk/m5wmWpnHWfI/s1600/Raw+-+Plastic+Media+-+Ceramic+Meda.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="" border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aUx3Ee74IoM/UEe2KX_iM4I/AAAAAAAAAHk/m5wmWpnHWfI/s320/Raw+-+Plastic+Media+-+Ceramic+Meda.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Selecting the proper media can be as much an art as a science. A clear understanding of all the finishing requirements is necessary. Considering the needed edge rounding, surface finishing, cycle time, metal type and many other factors are critical.<br />
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Notice the very heavy flashing on this aluminum part (far left in picture) left over from the machining process. This 'raw' part also had some machining marks on the surface that needed to be removed. The easy solution to finishing this part is to throw it in a vibratory tumbler with some <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media.htm">Ceramic Media</a> (see part on right) to remove the flashing and surface marks. Alternatively, <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/plastic-media.htm">Plastic Media</a> will take a little longer to deflash the part but will result in a smoother surface finish and less edge rounding (see middle part).<br />
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For this project, the objective was to get a smooth surface finish with slightly rounded edges in order prepare the part for a painting process. Ceramic Media was the best selection in this case due to the shorter cycle time, increased edge rounding and 'rougher' surface finish.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-43800651103391762372012-08-21T09:28:00.000-04:002012-09-07T14:07:49.185-04:0017-4 Stainless DeburringCeramic Media is the most commonly used tumbling media for deburring and surface finishing on steel. This is due to the fact that Ceramic Media is heavier and more aggressive than most other tumbling media and that steel is harder than many other metals (i.e., aluminum, copper, brass, etc.).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H3GGMh_ATOI/UDOKmITXcII/AAAAAAAAAHQ/zKNBEIMGuXk/s1600/Ceramic+Cone+Tumbling+Media.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H3GGMh_ATOI/UDOKmITXcII/AAAAAAAAAHQ/zKNBEIMGuXk/s320/Ceramic+Cone+Tumbling+Media.JPG" alt="" width="300" /></a></div>
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The 17-4 stainless steel part on the right in this picture has sharp edges and machining lines that need to be removed. In as little as 1 hour, a general purpose <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media/ceramic-cones.htm">Ceramic Cone</a> in a vibratory tumbler resulted in a uniform, matte surface finish and slightly rounded edges.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-77740668570487895532012-08-07T10:12:00.000-04:002012-09-07T13:06:11.962-04:00Investment Casting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I4Q9zB3RKqw/UBk4YNYSqOI/AAAAAAAAAG8/iWOMbPDKfTc/s1600/Investment+Casting.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I4Q9zB3RKqw/UBk4YNYSqOI/AAAAAAAAAG8/iWOMbPDKfTc/s200/Investment+Casting.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>
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Investment casting is process where parts are produced inside a mold (a.k.a., <i>investment</i>) which is then removed from the part to expose the molded piece. As the investment casting process typically requires high temperatures to liquefy and pour the metal alloy into the mold, discoloration of the final part is common. In addition, the investment material can often get stuck inside slots and grooves of the part. Both the discoloration and stuck investment can be seen in the part on the bottom of the picture.<br />
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The clean part seen in the top of the picture was a result of abrasive blasting. In this case, the hard metal alloy part was tumble blasted with <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media/white-aluminum-oxide.htm">White Aluminum Oxide</a> for only a few minutes. The end result is a clean, uniform surface finish ready for the next steps in the part production process.<br />
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A good explanation of the investment casting process can be found on Wikipedia at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting" rel="external">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting</a>.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-86032955886825466902012-07-19T11:00:00.000-04:002012-09-07T14:08:48.591-04:00Ceramic vs Plastic Tumbling Media<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KfOf1QUKB6o/UAayB8cBRJI/AAAAAAAAAGw/9r8W4Le4yqA/s1600/Raw+-+Plastic+Media+-+Ceramic+Meda.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="" border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KfOf1QUKB6o/UAayB8cBRJI/AAAAAAAAAGw/9r8W4Le4yqA/s320/Raw+-+Plastic+Media+-+Ceramic+Meda.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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The selection of tumbling media for a particular application depends not only on the type of material/metal being tumbled but also on the finish required for the next step(s) in the processing of the part. While less aggressive medias such as Plastic Media or Synthetic Media are typically used with softer metals like aluminum, the results above show a comparison of a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/plastic-media.htm">Plastic Media</a> versus a more aggressive <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media.htm">Ceramic Media</a>.<br />
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The picture shows the machined part on the far left followed by a part tumbled with a general purpose Plastic Triangle (middle) with a different part tumbled with a Ceramic Triangle on the far right. Both tumbled parts were vibratory tumbled for 1 hour with the same <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/chemical-compounds/liquid-compounds.htm">Kramco 1030</a> mild acid compound.<br />
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The machined part shows heavy burrs and machining marks on the surface. Both media types removed the machine marks and the burrs on the edges. The differences show up when looking more closely at the 'roughness' of the surface finish and the amount of edge rounding after the 1 hour cycle time.<br />
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The Plastic Media tumbled part shows slight edge rounding and a matte but uniform surface finish. This is a good finish for anodizing the aluminum part to a matte, smooth finish. The Ceramic Media tumbled part has noticeably more edge rounding and a more tumbled, 'rough-looking' surface finish. This finish is better for accepting paint or powder coating.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-92221892151954208402012-07-10T11:30:00.000-04:002012-09-07T14:10:15.448-04:00Machined Magnesium Parts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T78PK-RHZ30/T_sbhtKX8JI/AAAAAAAAAGY/zkuKfcxURt4/s1600/Machined+Magnesium.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="" border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T78PK-RHZ30/T_sbhtKX8JI/AAAAAAAAAGY/zkuKfcxURt4/s320/Machined+Magnesium.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
Similar to aluminum, lighter weight magnesium metal parts are often machined to create the required shapes and features (see picture above). The machining process leaves burrs, sharp edges and (most noticeably) machining lines and swirls. These imperfections in the surface need to be removed prior to further processing of the part.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qi3Ypr33LHg/T_sc3w5Qm6I/AAAAAAAAAGg/EOePNKZc-jg/s1600/Vibratory+Tumbled.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="" border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qi3Ypr33LHg/T_sc3w5Qm6I/AAAAAAAAAGg/EOePNKZc-jg/s320/Vibratory+Tumbled.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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As similar to aluminum and other reactive metals, magnesium is subject to oxidation. When vibratory tumbling the part, using the proper chemistry is important. This part was deburred and made smooth using a <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-media/ceramic-media.htm">Ceramic Angle Cut Cylinder</a> tumbling media and a solution of <a href="http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/chemical-compounds/liquid-compounds.htm">Kramco 1030 Mild Acid Compound</a> (see 2nd picture above).<br />
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Ceramic media was used to keep the cycle time to a minimum with maximum surface finishing. The Angle Cut Cylinders removed the machining marks all the way into the interior corners of the machined areas as well as provided an even deburr and edge rounding across the entire part. The slightly acidic pH of the Kramco 1030 prevented the part from oxidizing during the tumbling process and resulted in a clean, white-metal finish.Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2023688541625045825.post-27692720583833976052012-06-28T08:47:00.000-04:002012-09-07T14:12:41.297-04:00Blast Hose WearHow much lifetime can you expect from your blast hose? There are two factors that are the primary determinants. The first is the durability of the hose. Make sure that you are using a hose designed for blasting. One that is the appropriate thickness (1/4" minimum - 3/8" or 1/2" even better) and preferably reinforced.<br />
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The second factor is how the hose is used during blasting. As the abrasive media flows through the hose, it will wear the hose from the inside out. If the hose is kept relatively straight, you can expect even wear and a long lifetime. If the hose is bent or looped, uneven wear will occur and bubbles or blow-outs can occur. </div>
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This picture shows a used blast hose from the outside. Notice the reinforcement and layered aspect of this properly designed hose.</div><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ImpDJSuuACI/T-RoA9Mr8rI/AAAAAAAAAGE/gJrKLv_cER0/s1600/Blast+Hose+OD" imageanchor="1"><img alt="" border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ImpDJSuuACI/T-RoA9Mr8rI/AAAAAAAAAGE/gJrKLv_cER0/s320/Blast+Hose+OD" width="300" /></a></div>
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While this hose might appear to be in good condition after use, take a look at the cross section of the interior. This blast hose was bent as it came off the blast pot. Notice the uneven wear around the inside - even wearing through the reinforcing cord.</div><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FvXa9dY3d-I/T-RoiXGEr4I/AAAAAAAAAGM/mxsJoRRsMzg/s1600/Blast+Hose+ID" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FvXa9dY3d-I/T-RoiXGEr4I/AAAAAAAAAGM/mxsJoRRsMzg/s320/Blast+Hose+ID" width="300" /></a></div>
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Thank you to MasterBlaster for his post on <a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/f95/blast-hose-life-112784/#post1425752" rel="external">contractortalk.com</a> for sharing these pictures and insights.</div>
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Steven Schneiderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02122810354651499171noreply@blogger.com0